We take a look at the MatterHackers Pulse custom built 3D Printer.
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I bought a Prusa i3 mk3 (now upgraded to the 3s). Dad saw it and wanted a 3d printer but didn't want to wait the 3-4 months (I had to give up on a textured sheet) for the printer so he bought the Pulse XE. About the only thing I really like about his printer is the Garolite bed which I can do anyways.. The LCD menu is btw is so gimped it's almost useless (though the Red-Blue color changing knob is neat – changes colors depending on if the nozzle is Hot or not). His printer came with the Bondtech BMG extruder, and a Ruby Nozzle (the Nozzle was changed out to a Nozzle X because he wanted a larger dim Nozzle to prevent clogs printing wood based filaments). BTW you see the cables coming off the bed straight up take that zip tie off that and replace it with a new one and when you tighten it leave it somewhat loose otherwise that cable flexes so badly it will go bad causing Bed thermal runaway errors or design and print a new back end part so it shoots straight back instead of straight up. When he had the issue with his thermistor cable going bad, Matterhackers ignored him so support is in fact hit or miss. While I'd buy Filament from them I wouldn't buy their printer (a bowden MK2 clone)
Chris, you are the Consumer Reports of 3D Printer reviews! We need more frank, comprehensive reviews like yours. Thank you for raising the bar.
Great video. Love the honest review.
Great review, thank you!!
PULSE PTFE TUBE problem. Might Have a SOLUTION. Sorry to contact you like this but IDK another way. I have the problem too and now been free of that failure with this that I posted on the MH bulletinboard https://forums.matterhackers.com/topic/6123/bond-tech-extruder-loosing-ptfe-tube/3. I'd post the STL too but they don't let me upload and IDK right now how else and might be all the same anyway as its designed to be printed on a pulse with a .8 nozzle dialed in accurately. When I get some breathing room I might do a video but beyond "my kids" (FRC Team 1989) nobody watches them anyway and I see them all the time besides I've been told my videos have too much math and not enough cats. Anyway seems to be working here sofar. Might do a couple of improvements in the near future though. Other things that will be done to the Pulse is make a better enclosure, put a drag chain on the bed wireing (make sure at least its tied up to the wall of the electronics board or sooner or later you kill the mini rambo its a problem well documented on the PRUSA forum), redesign the hotend as the fan in the stock settings causes occasional thermal runaways if you are printing at temps >265 with the bed at >90 and the fan at 100% within 10mm of the hotplate plus if you have a print curl up there is a good chance it rips the leg of the BL touch off (I went through 3 and am leveling manually for the past 3 months). Not that its that bad a printer we put an average of 4 to 6kg of filament / week through that thing currently -mostly HIPS NYLON and some PETG and only occasionally less than 3 % PLA. With the current projects with the kids I get to it in about 15 kg the earliest (we are printing a 32x28x52 INCH 120 lb robot well not everything cant print motors and electronics yet). At least we are trying. And all on a Pulse. Hope that thing keeps working and that little thing I designed does the trick. If you are interested let me know and I tell you how to dial it in for that as you got to be accurate to < 0.1 mm
Maybe I just got lucky. I bought a Monoprice V2 in 2016 for about $300. It works great and has paid for itself 4 times. You experience my vary.
One thing I really appreciate about the Prusa that I don't see here is the way the aluminum frame (Z) is anchored in such a way to give it more rigidity. When you picked up the Pulse, I swear I saw it wiggle – something that wouldn't happen with more bracing.
I get people's comments about price but I also would counter with this: US made, full support, and fully built. To get the same price for a Prusa, you would need a kit. I could see the Pulse working for a certain demographic – not me, but that's why I got a Prusa.
Chris is a brave and determined guy. I would not agree to deal with this kind of nonsense printer even if MatterHackers paid me. WindowsUpdateControl? No, thanks.
An Ultimachines board on an over glorified kit..?
I'm sure there's someone out there who would buy this off you at a discount so you can get some of your money back.
Nice
Honest review! I'd pass too. In fact, I did! I think they could do a lot better.
Great job and keep it up
The Pulse : Will it flatline? Come into my basement to find out.
I was considering this, but it really needs some of the upgrades as part of the base model, for example, the filament runout sensor, a better hotend, a 32 bit board, and a LCD screen for independent printing. With reasonable upgrades, I was looking at around $1633, if not more as I'd get a PEI sheet or similar.
If MatterHackers made this with comparable stuff to the Prusa i3 Mk3s, and went with direct drive, this would definitely be an outstanding printer.
Not for $800. No. This should be a $500 kit. Maybe less since it requires tethering and no lcd. I love MH but this was a bad idea. Why not aluminum extrusions at this price? I could clone this exact one for way way less. It needs a lot of help to be in this price point. I hope you are brainstorming ways to mod it already.
I bought one as my first printer in august paid about 1200 with a Bodentech extruder, Full V6, and garolite plate and 9kg of a variety of filaments. We (FRC Team 1989) use it to print robotics stuff so the stuff we print is pretty big (some already on my channel) So its not standard model stuff but mostly mechanical very little PLA mostly Nylon, HIPS, ABS, PETG. Good part… We put about 30 kg through that thing and print almost exclusively with a .8 nozzle. Not so good it was back 2x for warranty repair. To add to what you are mentioning the bed heater wire is not tied down by the plug on the rambo. Prusa documented what happens if you don't and I experienced it. It fries the connector at the mini rambo so MH replaced the mini rambo and then tied the wire without lengthening it so now it crosses the build plate on top and I loose the right corner unless I want the wire to tangle with the part. So I will lengthen the wire and run it underneath with a drag chain. (which possibly will void the warranty I was told) But the wire kinks at the back of the plug and its a question of time before that will break as we are printing big parts and the build plate goes back and forth pretty much the whole length thousands of time a day as it runs pretty much 24 hours/day. The BL touch is unprotected so if you have a print that curls up – does not happen often – but when it does the BL touch looses its leg and I bought 3 BL touches so far and currently I manually level without it as I got tired of the expense I might get one when I redesign the hotend. The fan shroud gives problems at big parts and high temps as it blows too much on the nozzle at low layers (below layer 25) if you print at 275 C and a part with a 240×205 dimension and plenty of holes . That then causes thermal runaway as the E3d V6 drops from 275 to about 255. The hotend brackets are 3d printed out of RYNO which is a PETG. Now out of the 30 kg 14kg was Hobby King HIPS which is great for parts we call it the better ABS. But with a .8 nozzle it likes to be printed at 270 with a 100c bed and with above mentioned big part the hotend is above the 100C bed close for quite a long time and the fan shroud gets soft as according to MH the glass temp for Ryno is about 65 and then sags and catches the print. So the bottom of the hotend bracket behaves similar to a lesser degree so I reprinted some of those parts out of HIPS and that seems to work better. Redesigning the Hotend mount and fan shroud is on the todo list and will include a protection for the leg of the BL touch too. Also probably will void the warranty so it might have to wait a little. Filament out sensor bracket can turn which it will when you feed from a print dry which about half our prints do — mostly nylon. And if it twists it stops working. Right now a work around is Duct tape. Too many wires are "Free hanging" and I don't like that as a principle as gravity is a bitch at times. And yeah I have built a temp enclosure you probably can see on some of my videos on my channel. There is probably a series of upgrading the pulse coming depending on how much time the projects for team 1989 leave to tackle this. It will probably have some urgency once we get close to the end of the warranty. I got it so that on my first printer I don't have problems with fixing as we had lots of plans which not all came through due to too much down time but otoh I got quite an educating on taking the printer apart and putting it back together. There was some misinformation that has been fixed by MH by now. So for example their website stated that if you upgrade to the V6 you can go up to 400 C and there was a link to the E3d website sent to me. Now its true the V6 can go to 400 but not the one with the aluminum block and standard thermistor. So printing for a while at 300 destroyed some thermistors etc so I got good at disassembling the hotend plus the initial printer came with the nozzle not tightened and silly my thought I just plug the printer in and start printing as it came fully assembled and was wondering why filament came out of all kinds of places which required a full disassemble and cleaning etc. Well as I said I got an education in assembling and disassembling the printer or sending it back which happened 2x but then robotics season was coming closer and closer and who can wait 2 weeks for the printer to come back? so well DIY. Well now after talking to E3D I know that the current hotend should not be run over 280 and according to MH its impossible to install a copper block and the T100 plus it would void the warranty so that is on the list for after that too. As for Matter Control I slice now with slic3r and then run the Gcode through MC for bed leveling and that works most of the time. Except when you print a whole plate full of all the parts for a compound planetary gearbox with tons of double helical gears then MC sometimes just dies so print in smaller batches. Also power resume does not work if the printer only looses power for a short while like in a storm and the computer does not cause its a laptop with a battery. The printer resets and then thinks wherever the head is is home. Could be avoided with the printer doing a autohome at power up but well maybe it will happen somewhen in the future. There are a lot of other little weird things but this is already too long. Its a shame they seem to be trying hard but it sometimes seems there is someone with a lot of great ideas there and then some HS kid is putting it together and adding there own twist to it kinda like HS robotics.
bet you wish you used that $800 on another Prusa mk3 😛
Honest review. Nice vid!
Great Video. Problem for the Pulse is if your in Prusa’s price range, you better be just as good…
Too pricey as all stated. Perfectly happy with my b2x300 for the same price.
Sorry MatterHackers you may have great filament but Prusa has you Beat hands down on 9.5 outta 10 on features and price. You've priced it too high also design features and UI limitations still don't make it a goto machine..
Come on Matterhackers, you guys can do better than that!
I feel bad for anyone who buys this.
A genuine company starting to sell shit, a great way to kill your reputation if you ask me.
The best support service, is a service you don't ever need to use. Offering support on a printer where your actually might need it, is playing with fire.
I think you gave the Pulse a very fair, and honest look. You basically confirmed most of my thoughts about this machine. I know the higher end units are more specifically targeted for use with some of Matterhackers specialty materials, and perhaps they excel in that area. But the lower end machines seem to be more about a price point, than a use case.
Nice video,excellent review. Not for me. The biggest deal breaker ( aside from the price ) is the internet connection requirement. My internet is spotty at time, so I would not be able to tolerate an outage. Expensive for what you get. I do like made in the USA…….
Great review as always Chris.
Good info Chris – awfully overpriced for what you get though. It might find itself a niche for some, but that's about it. Thanks.
MatterHackers is nuttier than squirrel shit trying to get $800 for this. An LCD is what, $12?
Thanks for the review Chris
Agree with the others, have to say it's a bit interesting that many of my main channels I follow (who usually are great) have so little criticism on this one.